Small or young trees can be pruned, but do not remove branches from more than the first third of the total tree height (4). If shrubs are growing below the trees, increase this vertical space so that there is 3 times the height of the shrub beneath the lowest tree limb (9). Remove the lowest tree branches from large, mature trees to allow for 6 feet of space between low-growing perennials and the lowest branches (3, 4). Then compost or remove the trimmings to reduce fuel load. Keep plants tidy by pruning them back after flowering and fruiting and removing any dead material. ![]() Pruning goes a long way to reduce fire risk. Remove flammable invasive species such as junipers, Italian cypress, iceplant (which can deceivingly create a dead underlayer), bamboo, pampas grass, jubata grass, and Mexican feather grass (6, 8). Coffeeberry and toyon are great choices (5, 6, 7). Many slow growing species are also drought hardy, which means they maintain higher internal moisture during the dry season. This creates fuel breaks while retaining more natural habitat for wildlife, and can be visually attractive, too (2, 4)!įor easier maintenance, choose native plants that are slow growing, so that they require less pruning and produce less leaf litter. Break up the continuity of vegetation with clusters rather than just single shrubs or trees. Further away from structures, you can create small clusters of shrubs and/or trees with at least 10 feet of space between clusters (2). In the 5-to-30-foot zone around your home, shrubs should be spaced at least twice their height from each other (3). You can water the mulch down as you apply to help flatten it (5). Arbor mulch in the rest of your garden should ideally be mostly chips, with minimal twigs and leaves, so that it lies flatter and is less ignitable. ![]() Keep mulch at least 5 feet away from buildings (2, 3, 4). In the immediate 5-foot buffer around the home, use non-flammable substrate (3, 4), such as creating a walkway with pavement, gravel, or decomposed granite. Some overhead options, such as MP-rotator sprayers, are quite water efficient, allowing plants to maintain good foliar hydration with just 2 thorough irrigations per month in our more moderate climate of northern California. ![]() Like rainfall, overhead watering encourages mycorrhizal networks (the beneficial plant-fungi connections that many native plants depend upon to flourish) to establish throughout the garden soil by creating an evenly damp environment, as opposed to the isolated inundation of drip irrigation. Overhead irrigation decreases fire risk and many native plants prefer it (2).
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